News

"It Feels Like My Ancestors Are With Me"

Sep 11, 2017

Kristin Catherwood

Food security has always been a pressing issue, but in recent years debates about the agricultural methods behind the production of our food have become more mainstream. The marketing behind organic foods, non-GMO foods, and local, slow food have created trends. The trendiness suggests that these are new concepts, when really they are a revival or a return to the way most humans have procured food throughout history. In response to this movement, entrepreneurs across the province have made it easier for Saskatchewan people to access locally grown food. Nicole Davis from North Portal is one of them, but in her case, she is carrying on two long-standing traditions in the far southeastern corner of the province. 

First of all, she is carrying on her family's organic farm, which was established in 1890. Nicole farms alongside her father, and feels proud to be the latest generation to continue on her family's operation. In one way, she's continuing on tradition, and in another, she's breaking with it. In Saskatchewan it has been the custom, if not the rule, for family farms to pass to male descendants, and many people still equate the term "farmer" with "man." Women have always farmed alongside their husbands in this province, but were rarely afforded the same social standing, or even the privilege of being able to call themselves a farmer.

The second tradition Nicole is keeping alive is that of milling. There are few flour mills left in Saskatchewan, and very few attached to individual farming opertions. Daybreak Mill has been in business since 1953 when Alvin Scheresky began it as Scheresky Mill. At the time, chemicals were being introduced into farming operations, but Scheresky chose to continue farming without them. He grew the grain, milled it, packaged it, and delivered it to customers in other provinces.

In the early 2000s, when Scheresky retired, the mill's ownership passed to Ray and Marianne Aspinall. They began retailing their organic flours and cereals in smaller packages for the local market, and this is how I first became acquainted with Daybreak Mill. Several years ago I started buying Daybreak Mill products from Old Fashion Foods in Weyburn. I was excited to be able to buy locally produced flour, since as the daughter of a farmer, I know that most of what gets grown in this province leaves it, and it's hard to know where it ends up. As a kid, I used to sometimes wonder when eating pasta or bread if some of the flour used to make it came from our farm. There was no way to know!

I found out when I got in touch with Daybreak Mill that the newest owner is Nicole Davis, a young woman my age who not only owns and operates the mill, but also grows all the grain that goes into the mill. Nicole bought the company in 2012 and now employs a year-round staff to operate the mill, including miller Brock Aspinall who has been with the mill since 2006. Brock is an expert at operating the mill, which is over 50 years old and original to Alvin Scheresky's beginnings. I find Nicole's story very inspiring, and I spent a beautiful day with her and her staff last spring learning all about Daybreak Mill.

To learn more about the history of Daybreak Mill and its products, check out its website. And enjoy this video where Nicole explains what it means to her to be carrying on the traditions of farming and milling!